A loose 1 ct trilliant cut diamond certified by GIA.
“Trilliant” is a broad term that’s used to describe cuts based on the shape of a triangle and they are one of the most unique looking fancy shaped diamond in the market.
Typically, the trilliant diamond is cut to equivalent sides and is made up of 50 facets. They are popular amongst people who are searching for a fashionable looking stone or want an alternative shape that is different from the common round diamond.
In modern times, they are often used in diamond rings as sidestones or as accent stones to complement a main stone instead of a standalone solitaire. Besides applications in ring designs, this versatile diamond cut has also found its use in jewelry bracelets and earrings.
Here is a list of topics we will be covering:
Before talking about anything else, we should clarify that if you ever stumble upon the terms “trillion cut” or “trillian cut”, the information you find will actually be related to trilliant cuts. Some of the terms used can be “branded” trademarks or information that simply refers to a triangular brilliant cut diamond.
The trilliant cut was developed during and after World War II, but it was only patented in 1962 by the Henry Meyer Diamond Company with the trademark “Trilliant”. At around the same period of time, another diamond cutter called Leon Finker also designed and cut triangular brilliant diamonds under a trademark name called “Trillion”.
Due to the confusion between 2 phonetically similar terms “Trillion” and “Trilliant”, both of these terms lost their trademark status in the 1980s and the Trillion cut was subsequently rebranded to be called “Trielle” by Leon Finker’s family business.
Today, the original cutting technique is freely available for use by diamond cutters around the globe and this has led to different variations of the cutting style. Broadly speaking, the term brilliant-cut is used to describe gems that are cut with a triangular shape.
Flat, Twinned Diamond Rough (Macle)
In today’s market, the terms triangular brilliant and triangular modified brilliant are used by GIA in their lab reports to describe unbranded triangle shaped diamonds.
Trilliant cuts typically have shallow depths and this is largely due to the nature of the rough being used. In shaping trilliants, triangular shaped roughs called macles are usually used in order to maximize carat weight retention.
As you can see from the example above, the overall shape and outline of the macle make it a perfect candidate for achieving a triangle shaped polished diamond.
Compared to the other fancy cut diamond shapes, the symmetry, polishing and proportions of the trilliant diamond will significantly impact its visual appearance. I recommend a minimum of “very good” ratings for both polish and symmetry.
|Table %||56% – 66%||54% – 68%||52% – 70%||Outside Ranges|
|Depth %||35% – 46%||34% – 48%||33% – 52%||Outside Ranges|
|Polish/Symmetry||Excellent – Very Good||Good||Outside Ranges|
|Length to Width||1.00||0.95 – 1.05||1.10 – 1.20||Outside Ranges|
|Girdle Thickness||V. Thin – Slightly Thick||V. Thin – Thick||Outside Ranges|
|Culet Size||None||Very Small||Small||Outside Ranges|
* Note: This table should be used as a reference only. Due to the varying length/width ratio that a diamond may be cut to, there are no hard and fast rules for choosing a diamond based on proportions alone. I don’t recommend buying blind and you should always request additional information like an ASET image or a photograph/video of the diamond.
A trilliant diamond looks best when it is in the form of an equilateral triangle. Ideally speaking, a 1:1:1 proportion on each side of the diamond is the best. An irregular or out-of-symmetry diamond will be very obvious to the eye and should be avoided.
Round cut vs triangular cut diamond comparison.
Trilliant cut diamonds look larger than other shapes for their carat weight because they are cut to shallower depths of around 35 – 46%. While this is an intrinsic property of trilliant diamonds that makes it look bigger, a shallow depth will also result in lesser brilliance and fire.
More importantly, when a shallow cut diamond is dirty, it can accentuate any imperfections within the stone due to the loss of brilliance. As a guideline, I recommend buying trilliants with at least an SI1 clarity.
Note: Trilliant cut diamonds with a depth ratio of less than 35% are often used as side-stones in a ring. If you are choosing a diamond for a solitaire setting, choose a diamond with a depth in the higher limit of 44% to get better fire and brilliance.
Like the marquise and heart shaped diamonds, trilliants also have pointed corners which require extra care to prevent chipping or breakage. Because of this, it is advisable to set them in V-shaped prongs or mountings that provide adequate protection to the sharp corners.
There are two main usages for triangular shaped stones when it comes to designing rings. Usually, they are either used as a single diamond in solitaire settings or as accent stones in three-stone settings.
The difference between these two usage types lies in the orientation of the feature stone and both methods have their own advantages. Since trilliants have a single line of symmetry, one side of the diamond should ideally be placed perpendicular to the wearer’s finger.
One of the more popular methods of setting a trilliant cut places the perpendicular side closer to the wearer’s hand and the apex closer to the fingernails. In this orientation, the stone flatters the finger’s length and makes the wearer’s hand more feminine.
When the diamond is installed the other way around – that is, the perpendicular side of the triangle is closer to the nail of the wearer; the result will convey a rather robust appearance. This makes the setup a more comfortable choice for rings, especially those that are designed for men.
A trilliant cut diamond does not necessarily have to be aligned in an ordered manner. Quite the contrary, the single symmetry can be used in other fancy ways.
When the stone is set up in a random orientation, it will result in a light-some and casual mood. While it is more commonly used for earrings and necklaces, this random alignment can also be used for rings for people who want to be different.
If you are looking for a solitaire diamond ring with a trilliant cut diamond, it would be extremely difficult to find vendors that sell them because of their rarity and low demand.
The best way to get a great looking ring is to work with White Flash for a custom job and allow ample time for completion (2-3 months). This will enable them to source for a great looking stone on your behalf and get it set in a ring of your choice.
Get more details on this ring by clicking on this link…
You might want to check out James Allen for some great looking designs. My favorite is the one on the left with the engravings as it gives the ring an authentic Victorian look.
In the case of earrings, the orientation of the diamond has less importance since it won’t be held in place permanently when worn. Instead, the unconventional triangular shape will give the piece of jewelry a playful touch to it.
The story does not end here. There is a myriad of other jewelry types which can showcase trilliant cut diamonds. Just to mention one quick example, imagine a halo necklace featuring a trilliant cut diamond with the apex pointing downwards.
Combining this subtle elegance with another diamond shape can yield an epic piece of jewelry.
Personally, I find trilliant cuts to be most intriguing when mounted in ring settings because of their unique shape. Ask yourself the following question, how many times had you seen someone wear a trilliant cut diamond ring compared to a traditional round brilliant cut?
Probably never. And if you are someone who wants something truly unique, this can be something you may want to consider.
That said, jewelry preferences vary according to individual tastes. If you love trilliant cuts, don’t be bothered by what other people say about them. To each his/her own; one man’s meat is another man’s poison.