asscher cut diamond at 10X magnification

Distinct Windmill Patterning

With its history of 110 years, the Asscher cut can be considered a middle-aged development in the diamond industry. Despite the initial difficulties in gaining consumer acceptance, the Asscher cut has evolved and started to get popular again over the last two decades. 

The Asscher cut has a step cutting style with 57 facets (could also be cut to 49 or 65 facets) and has a very similar structure to the emerald shape. The main difference is that the length-to-width ratio of the Asscher cut is very close to 1.00:1.00 and it takes on a squarish appearance.

Also, the trademark look of the Asscher lies in the “windmill” patterning that can be seen across the center of the diamond.

A Short Historical And Technical Overview

The Asscher cut holds the name of its creator, Joseph Asscher, who was one of the founding brothers of the Dutch corporation – Asscher Brothers. Developed in 1902, the Asscher cut was one of the pioneers of the Art Deco movement of the early twentieth century. At that time, the Asscher’s simple refined lines and large bold facets were held firmly in harmony with the public’s expectations.

Interestingly, it came close to being forgotten for seven to eight decades until Hollywood and the world of celebrities helped reignite interest. More notably, after the Asscher cut diamond made appearances in the blockbuster series “Sex and the City” and Kate Hudson’s stunning engagement ring, its popularity began to soar again.

  • Did you know that the step cut is actually an efficient cutting method because it can reduce the amount of rough wastage?

    Needless to say, this is also rightfully reflected in the polished diamond prices. You can usually observe Asschers to be cheaper than the round diamonds by at least 20-30%.

    Paul Gian
    Why Are Asscher Cuts Cheaper Than Round Brilliant Cuts?

    When buying Asscher cut diamonds, you cannot rely solely on a grading report to make your selection. With’s innovative video technology, you can now see exactly how the diamond looks like in real life!

    Different Styles of Faceting And Their Impact on Appearance

    Like most other fancy cuts, Asschers can come in a variety of facet patterning styles. The most common form of variance can be seen in the number of pavilion and crown steps the Asscher is cut to. Ultimately, the choice of facet patterning boils down to the nature of the rough crystal and the decisions a cutter makes with it.

    In the grading report, this information is found in the reference vector diagram.

    3 crowns and 3 pavilion steps in an asscher cut diamond

    – 1.02 Carat E Color VS2 and 1.31 G Color VVS2 with 3 crown and 3 pavilion steps

    3 crowns and 4 pavilion steps in asscher cuts

    – 1.01 Carat D Color VS1 and 1.00 G Color VS1 with 3 crown and 4 pavilion steps

    3 crowns and 5 pavilion steps in asscher cuts

    – 1.00 Carat D Color VS1 and 1.66 H Color SI1 with 3 crown and 5 pavilion steps

    You can browse through a comprehensive suite of Asscher diamonds with different cutting styles and personalities at With their video listings, you get to see exactly how the diamond looks like in far greater details than you would anywhere else.

    I know what you are probably thinking of right now… “Which is the best or recommended facet patterning you should get?” Unfortunately, there isn’t any right or wrong answers to this question. Each combination can yield a superb looking stone if it is cut correctly to good proportions and angles.

    The onus is on you to make the right call on the right stone. Don’t worry, I’ll show you how to select diamonds with the best optics in a while. But first, I want to show you some of the criteria for choosing a great looking Asscher cut and the things to note…

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    1. Avatar
      May 22, 2018 at 6:14 am

      Hey Paul,

      First, thanks for the amazing site! Your knowledge has certainly proven useful as I’m hunting around for the perfect rock. :)

      I’ve been pretty partial to picking out an Asscher cut, so I figured this would be the best place to pick your brain: what do you think of this? 1.11 carat / G / IF / GIA certified

      The same rock on BlueNile goes for about $800 more, which makes me feel better about my hunting skills, but at the same time without the ASET image I’m a little trigger-shy.

      How do you think the diamond above would compare to the following one (1.21 carat / G / VS2 / AGS)? ASET seems to look pretty good for a bigger rock, but doesn’t seem “eye clean” to me.

      Thanks again for all of your help! I’d also love to pick your brain on more specific buying for lab-created options, since they’re basically 99.9% IGI certified without ASET or IdealScope images.


    2. Avatar
      Paul Gian-
      May 27, 2018 at 3:50 am

      The first diamond would be a better choice as it has better cut quality. If you are looking for lab created diamonds, Brilliant Earth would be the dealer to look at as they are the largest retailer of them and you stand a better chance of finding something decent there. The videos of the diamond can actually reveal cut information and help towards making an educated decision.

      Read this:

    3. Avatar
      January 8, 2019 at 3:37 am

      I purchased a 2.01 carat asscher diamond: GIA, I-color, VVS1. I’m concerned bc based on “standard” asscher 2 carat renderings it should measure closer to 7mm wide and long. Mine per the GIA cert shows the measurements are closer to a 1.5 to 1.8 carat diamond…mine measures at 6.69mm x 6.71. Table is 63%, depth is 69.7% and a very thick girdle.
      Am I paying too much at $9700? Will this stone face up too small for 2 carats to be at the 2 carat price?
      Thanks in advance!

    4. Avatar
      Paul Gian-
      January 8, 2019 at 1:02 pm

      It’s hard to say whether you found a well cut diamond as there are too many variables involved. The carat weight and measurements by itself mean nothing compared to how the diamond looks like or will sparkle because of cut quality.

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