Like other fancy shape diamonds, there are certain criteria you need to keep in mind when selecting an Asscher. Being step cuts, Asschers have reduced brilliance and scintillation compared to the round diamonds. As a result, material flaws and inclusions don’t get hidden up so easily.
If you want a diamond that faces up white, choose stones with a G color grade or better. Also, I recommend selecting diamonds with a minimum clarity grade of SI1 or better. Do take note that larger diamonds above 2 carat sizes might even require a VS1 clarity to stay eye clean. That said, it is compulsory to visually inspect diamonds for eye cleanliness before carrying out a purchase.
Don’t you just love it when they give you a hypnotic feeling?
1.05 Carat F -SI1 Ideal Cut Asscher
1.93 Carat F-VS1 Ideal Cut Asscher
Interested in diamonds like this? Click here to browse with high resolution videos…
Here’s a major tip most jewelers are clueless about. Well, even if they do have some knowledge of this, they might not share it with you (for obvious reasons!). In Asscher cuts, the “windmills” in the diamond should extend all the way into the middle of the stone and converge into a single point. This will create a balanced and pleasing outlook that also helps in the stone’s light performance.
The “windmills” terminate before they reach the middle…
In my personal opinion, if the “windmills” join up before reaching the center, they are telltale signs of a poorly proportioned diamond. Having performed a number of physical comparisons of such diamonds, I can tell you these diamonds usually lack a “hall of mirrors” effect which gives the Asscher its characteristic flavor.
When I am personally searching for an Asscher, this factor is an automatic dis-qualifier that will cause me to reject the diamond.
There are also two primary characteristics you want to pay attention to when looking at proportions. These are depth percentage and table size which are both expressed as percentages in a grading report. Try to look for stones with a depth between 60% and 65% and a table size between 59% and 65%.
|Table %||59% – 65%||58% – 68%||56% – 70%||Outside Ranges|
|Depth %||60% – 65%||58% – 67%||57% – 69%||Outside Ranges|
|Polish/Symmetry||Excellent – Very Good||Good||Outside Ranges|
|Length to Width||1.00 – 1.05||1.05 – 1.10||1.10 – 1.15||Outside Ranges|
|Girdle Thickness||V. Thin – Slightly Thick||V. Thin – Thick||Outside Ranges|
|Culet Size||None||Very Small||Small||Outside Ranges|
* Note: The parameters in this table should be used as a reference only. It is best to use videos to view the diamond in motion or see the stone physically to determine its scintillation pattern. The use of an ASET scope will also aid greatly in determining the optical characteristics of the diamond.
Ideally speaking, you should only consider Asschers with length-to-width ratios between 1.00 – 1.05 : 1. Anything larger than that, the diamond will appear off-square and look awkward. Next, I will show you the exact step-by-step process you can use to buy a well-cut Asscher cut diamond…