While some sort of standardization exists, there are still a lot of cutters who are producing under par diamonds and trying to pass them off as Hearts and Arrows stones. Here are some basic guidelines that you can use to check whether your chosen diamond has good optical symmetry.
In reality, a perfectly cut diamond that conforms 100% to all these guidelines rarely exists. Even the top 0.1% of the round brilliant cuts in the market would exhibit some form of minor variations. These minute variations are acceptable as long as the overall integrity of the guidelines is in place.
Too Many Penalties – Reject This Stone
Minor Defects – Passable
Also, taking a great picture or viewing the hearts and arrows patterning isn’t a straightforward process. It does require some practice especially if you had no prior experience. Any slight tilt of the diamond or your eye (even by a minute 0.5 degrees) would cause the patterning to be slightly skewed. Do bear this in mind when you are physically examining diamonds in stores.
2. Shaft thickness and size variations.
3. Irregularly formed center.
4. Pointed heads does not reach the edge.
5. Missing arrow heads.
2. Different sizes of the individual hearts.
3. Pointed shoulders at 2, 3 ,4 o’clock.
4. V-shaped tips have merged together.
5. Irregular spacing of V’s and hearts.
For a more detailed read, click this link to download the guidelines used by HRD. While these rules may seem like a lot to pay attention to, it rightfully deserves your attention. When you are buying super ideal cut diamonds, there is a premium placed on them and it is in your best interest to scrutinize details.
Vendors and jewelers can advertise their inventories with fanciful marketing and often give misleading sales pitches. The onus is on you to determine whether you are paying the right price for the right quality.